One love of Croatian charm: Radio 1 star Jamila Jamil is seduced by Croatia during a sunny vacation in Dubrovnik and Split.
- Radio 1 star fulfills a long-held dream of visiting Croatia’s Adriatic coast
- DJ spends a happy week in historic Dubrovnik and fun-filled Split.
- She also ventured to the island of Brac in search of quiet beaches.
For at least ten years, I have been bombarded with statements from friends and strangers that Croatia is the most beautiful place in the world.
Having traveled a significant part of the planet in 28 years, I denied that anything could compare with Rome, my favorite city. But in the end I decided to check it out – and found myself sitting at Gatwick Airport, arms folded across my chest, mildly skeptical.
Our time was limited, so we chose only three parts of Croatia, starting with Dubrovnik.
Just great: Jamila’s travels brought her to the legendary Croatian island of Brac.
We landed at 21:00 and were transported directly to our hotel, the Valamar President Hotel in the hills, ten minutes from the popular old town. From the outside, it looks like a golf course. From the inside, it looks like Brangelina will stop somewhere.
(Give me a signal to find Brangelina immediately. They weren’t there.)
To call this hotel grand would be an understatement. It offered panoramic ocean views, spaciousness and luxury that I had never encountered anywhere else. I rushed to my room. My boyfriend was upset. At £ 200 a night (although it would have been a lot cheaper if I hadn’t booked 15 minutes before leaving for the airport …) I was hoping for something relatively decent.
But a lovely king room with a full patio and breakfast table, practically on a private beach, was not what I expected. One very inelegant jump across my balcony and I’ll be kicking in the sand.
Morning came after a beautiful sleep, and the view was officially ridiculous.
Miles and miles of perfectly clear blue Adriatic Sea, surrounded by unspoiled islands and spiced with quirky palm trees for effect.
I walked cautiously to the breakfast buffet. I hate the word buffet. You are often greeted with mildly cold, very salty mass-prepared slops. But not here.
Long-term ambition: Jamila has long wanted to visit Croatia, but was not ready for its beauty.
Here I was introduced to the choice of breakfast that triggers an anxiety attack. “How the hell can I get it all in my mouth before 11:00 am?” Omelettes and pancakes to order, prepared by the chefs. Fine fruits, cheeses, fresh smoothies, cold meats, vegetables and delicious Croatian cakes. It just wasn’t conducive to wearing a bikini.
After drinking enough for a small family and barely breathing, I drove to the hotel’s private beach. Luxurious sun loungers, fluffy towels, perfect, clean, calm sea … Water sports are available in abundance, many water toys for babies and people with disabilities and families.
One tip: since Croatia is definitely rocky, buy these disgusting water shoes. Do not go barefoot to the sea. In the first hour, I stepped on a sea urchin, which gave me about 40 thorns, dug deep into my leg. I can’t remember such pain before. The pain made me say out loud the most incredible thing: “Oh my God, how I wish I had a pair of Crocs” (never said anyone under 85). But seriously, do it.
By 8 o’clock we headed to the famous old town of Dubrovnik, which is hidden behind huge stone walls. Everything inside is made of marble, so you find yourself in what looks like a grand, unspoiled set filled with character and beautiful architecture.
City of Stars: Jamila was enchanted by the history and beauty of Dubrovnik.
It’s insane to think that a little over 20 years ago, this place was brutally bombed during the siege of 1991. Therefore, its inhabitants love and cherish it.
There are many people in the restaurants offering traditional Italian cuisine (pizza, pasta, fish). And the city is full of young people. Small side streets have quirky bars with cushion-covered steps for passers-by to relax and have a drink.
The atmosphere is noisy and lively. This is truly one of the most stunning places I have ever seen. It takes hours to explore every nook and cranny and every stunning view from the top of the enormous spans of the marble staircase.
We came back here three nights in a row, each time trying different restaurants and bars in the side streets.
Everyone has about the same food, the same price, the same menu, the same standard, so I won’t tell you where to go. Just avoid the main courtyard as the tourist nature lowers food standards. And the pizza looks weekly. Eurgh.
After only three days of exploring Dubrovnik and an insane love of sightseeing, I shamelessly replaced Rome with this beloved city of mine.
Already. It’s unthinkable.
Youthful atmosphere: according to Jamila, a real party reigns in Split.
Continue to Split, a 3-hour bus ride along the picturesque coastline.
As we drove into town, I was worried that it looked like a resting place for the guys. The word “kebab” was written everywhere. But as we approached the center where our hotel was located, the architecture and tranquility returned again.
We booked a room at the Cornaro Hotel. To enter, you walk through a charming pink courtyard where you are greeted by such friendly and helpful staff that you almost feel suspicious. We British are savages compared to the services you get in Croatia.
We were escorted to our room through a pretty hotel decorated with a luxury luxury yacht inside and to our lovely deluxe room. Everything was new and modern, yet very elegant. The bed was comfortable and the room was very quiet despite being in the middle of the action.
The breakfast was ok. Get there early as the hot food at 10am was barely warm. But the pastries were fresh and tasty, and I have never seen such a multicultural breakfast in my life. English chips, croissants, German pie and a very simple crayfish sushi tray.
Split is full of life. But I warn you – this is a very young life. The average age is from 18 to 24 years old. You need energy. Loud, bustling open-air bars and clubs line the streets. Once you get to the old town, everything will subside and you can enjoy some lovely grilled fish in the courtyard.
The hotel staff recommended a restaurant called NoStress and we went. Terrible name. Mediocre appetizer and great main course. Chicken and fish that evoke light emotions in you. I highly recommend this.
After that, we walked along the perfectly preserved palace walls, apparently haunted by ghosts, none of which met me, thank God.
Away from everything: Brac has not only beaches with varying degrees of attendance, but also the charm of a quiet island.
The shops are open late and you are just five minutes from the port, home to some of the most incredible yachts I’ve ever seen. (I looked around again for Brangelina. And here too.)
The next day I decided that Split was too hectic for me. So I took a very cheap ferry (they leave every hour and a half until midnight) to the nearest island of Brac. It lasted 45 painless minutes and was worth it. Such a charming place is by far the most family-friendly place I have ever been. An abundance of water activities for children, clean beaches and the most beautiful port in Croatia.
Brač is famous for its V-shaped Bol beach. I was not worried. The road back and forth by taxi, no shadow, packed with tourists. Instead, take a walk from the ferry and find your own pretty little coves that are only visited by locals and with stunning views.
Looks that can make you forget about cellulite or even your name.
For dinner we went to a quaint little restaurant called Vila Dora, in the corner by the port. Beautiful, simple, fresh food – this has been the best food in Croatia so far. Bravo.
We took the ferry back and had a last night’s sleep in Croatia. It was terrible to leave. The last day was spent strolling through the beautiful old town of Split, filled to the brim with people in ancient Roman clothing, acting out historical scenes in the streets to the delight of the crowd, mostly women. The soldiers have very small skirts. And the Croatian men are FAST. (Wear sunglasses if you’re with a partner so you can stare calmly.) I usually give what I’ve seen in Croatia five stars.
What a beautiful country, what lovely people. What a tranquil and welcoming place that has overcome overwhelming adversity to become one of the most coveted places on the planet.
I was terrified of leaving and booked my next trip there as soon as I finished this review.
Sorry Rome.
Travel Facts: Plan your own sunny vacation on the Croatian coast.
Prestigious Holidays (www.prestigeholidays.co.uk/croatia, 01425 480400) offers weekly holidays in Croatia from £ 999 per person. This price includes a return flight from Gatwick with easyJet to Dubrovnik and back to Gatwick from Split, a Group B car rental, four nights B&B at the Valamar Dubrovnik President and three nights at a B&B at the Cornaro Hotel in Split.
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